Most people are arriving in Varanasi at the end of a long flight or overnight train journey, and I never do anything touristy on arrival day. After checking in to the hotel and having some rest, we head out to a drive to Sarnath, which takes about 30-45 mins (depending on the traffic) to reach. Not far from Varanasi, this is where Lord Buddha first taught the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutra, and it features the Dhamek Stupa, a massive brick temple complex 44 m high, which one can walk all the way around. However, of most interest to a thai pilgrim group is the local Wat Thai Sarnath, a full-fledged monastery complex built by the thai monks community, where they are most likely to see the monks interacting with the visitors. And we finish up the day in Deer Park before sunset (as it closes at 6 pm), with an overnight stay in Varanasi at a hotel near the ghats.

I give groups a light day 2 in Varanasi, because the next few days involve a lot of driving to temples, and those who want to can take an optional sunrise cruise at about 5:30 am. Those who want to sleep in, or feel that it’s better to do it another day, can skip out on it. In the evening, we walk to Dashashwamedh Ghat to see the Ganga Aarti, which begins as the sun is going down. However, I must be completely honest that the steps leading up to the ghat can get absolutely crowded with people at this time of year, elbowing and jostling, and not easy for those unaccustomed to such scenes. If that sounds unpleasant, we can always watch it from a closer but more expensive boat on the river instead. Another night in the same hotel in Varanasi, as we leave early tomorrow for the next leg of our tour.

This is the day where I start being completely honest with people about how long everything takes. The drive from Varanasi to Bodhgaya is about 250 km and takes six to seven hours at best on a good day, especially without traffic jams on narrow roads and near the Bihar border, which can occur frequently. We leave at 7 in the morning with breakfast on the road, and I make it clear that we are not going to beat the clock. Once in Bodhgaya, the change in pace slows things down considerably – it feels much more monastery-centric than city-centric. If there’s any light left, we take a walk around the outside of the Mahabodhi Temple complex before supper before resuming a proper visit tomorrow – not easy on the legs after sitting on a bus for a long day. Overnight stay in Bodhgaya, close to the temple cluster.

We leave early in the day (around 7 am) for Bodhgaya, to beat the heat and the crowds of other tour groups that are also making the stop on the Buddhist Circuit. The highlight of Mahabodhi is, of course, the legendary Bodhi Tree, as well as the temple complex built around it, where one walks around in a counter-clockwise direction (I make this point clear to everyone). However, those who know the Bodhi Tree lore already know that this is not the original tree, but a second one that grew from a cutting of the first, which was planted by the monks. I’ve actually found that it helps to know that when visiting, which is why I bring it up – they will most likely tell you right away about the lineage of this tree. In the afternoon we visit Wat Thai Bodhgaya, one of the largest thai temples outside of thailand and built in full Thai Royal style with a golden roof that stands out nicely against the other surrounding monasteries: Tibetan, Bhutanese, Japanese, and so on, that can also be seen from the road. For most of my thai pilgrims, this is usually the highlight of the entire trip, and our second night in Bodhgaya.

Again, we leave early for our drive to Kushinagar, as it is the farthest of all stops on the Buddhist Circuit. Along the way we pass through Rajgir, where we see Griddhakuta Hill or Vulture Peak, the place where Lord Buddha is said to have delivered many sermons and speeches, including the Samaññaphala Sutta. While the climb is nothing too serious, I do make it clear to people that there are some stairs and no ramp, so it might not be suitable for those with knee problems. From Rajgir, we head to Nalanda, the abandoned university of ancient India, with only red bricks to mark the places where its buildings once stood. However, it’s mostly an expanse of open land with no shade, so it can get quite hot in the late morning. Neither Nalanda nor Rajgir has a thai temple, which disappoints some groups, as they were hoping for one at every stop. From Nalanda, we continue on to Kushinagar, the farthest point of this itinerary, which takes another seven to eight hours to reach, depending on the road. This is the day when I start being completely honest with people about how long everything takes. It’s tiring, and I want to make it clear to people without surprise, especially as the roads can be bumpy. Overnight stay in Kushinagar.

We spend the morning touring Mahaparinirvana Temple at Kushinagar, home to the 6.1-meter-long reclining Buddha statue sculpted from a single block of red sandstone. Most pilgrims are quiet and subdued during the visit, as it is considered the holiest site of all four holy cities and the heart of Lord Buddha’s Nirvana. I give people time to adjust at their own pace and avoid rushing them around. Not far from the Mahaparinirvana Temple, near the village of Mithila, is the small Ramabhar Stupa, built over the exact site where Lord Buddha passed away on his final breath, where crowds of people congregate and take pictures. Most pilgrims, however, are content to simply observe. Kushinagar International Airport, which opened its doors in 2021, is conveniently located for the Buddhist Circuit, and most people are flying back to their respective countries from here rather than returning to Varanasi, a long way back. That’s the extent of this Buddhist Circuit Tour for Thai Pilgrims with Thai Guide: 6 days, 4 holy cities, and more driving than you may have initially expected.